Chain Stitch Hem Knowledge
Chain Stitch Hemming Guide
What Is a Chain Stitch Hem?
A chain stitch hem is the traditional method used to finish the bottom of denim jeans. Vintage American jeans were commonly hemmed using specialized chain stitch hemming machines, creating a distinctive stitch construction that differs from a standard lock stitch hem found on most modern alterations.
A chain stitch is formed by two threads. One on the top face of the denim and one that loops together underside the hem, creating a continuous chain pattern. A lock stitch, on the other hand, uses two threads that interlock within the fabric. While both are durable, the chain stitch allows the hem to age in a way that many denim enthusiasts appreciate.
As raw denim is worn, washed, and shrinks over time, a properly sewn chain stitch hem can develop the signature "roping" effect. The edge of the hem begins to twist and wear unevenly, producing the high-contrast fading that has become one of the hallmarks of vintage denim. A traditional lock stitch hem generally remains flatter and develops much less of this character.
For anyone looking to preserve the authentic construction and aging of their jeans, a chain stitch hem is considered the preferred choice.
The Railcar Chain Stitch Standard
Every chain stitch hem performed at Railcar Fine Goods is completed in-house by the same experienced makers who build our garments.
Traditional 3/8" Hem
We sew our hems using a traditional 3/8-inch hem allowance. Through years of making and repairing denim, we've found this width produces beautiful roping and ages naturally while maintaining the proportions found on classic heritage jeans.
Clean Cuffed Appearance
Most people who wear raw denim occasionally cuff their jeans. That's why we carefully begin and end every chain stitch on the inseam. This keeps the visible outseam clean and uninterrupted, giving the cuffed hem a refined, finished appearance without an obvious overlap where the stitching starts and stops.
Heavy-Duty Thread
We use durable Tex 105 (T105) thread for our hems, closely matching the weight used on quality heritage denim. We also stock a wide range of thread colors, allowing us to closely match the original hem for a factory-like appearance.
Vintage Equipment
Our chain stitch hems are sewn on vintage industrial chain stitch hemming machines that produce the authentic stitch construction denim enthusiasts expect. Combined with proper thread, tension, and experienced operators, the result is a hem that both looks and wears as it should.
Free Chain Stitch Hemming on Railcar Jeans
We provide complimentary chain stitch hemming on all new Railcar jeans.
If you already know your desired inseam length, simply include it when placing your order and we'll hem your jeans before they ship.
If this is your first pair of Railcar jeans and you're unsure about your waist or fit, we generally recommend wearing the jeans first before requesting a custom hem. Once jeans have been custom hemmed, they are considered altered and are no longer eligible for return or exchange.
Many customers prefer to confirm the fit first, then send the jeans back to us for chain stitch hemming once they're confident the sizing is right.
Why Choose a Chain Stitch Hem?
Preserves the authentic construction of heritage denim.
Produces the sought-after roping effect over time.
Ages beautifully with wear and washing.
Maintains the original look of premium jeans.
Completed in-house by experienced Railcar makers using vintage industrial equipment.